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REPORTS |
November 28, 2003
The kindness I've been shown since coming here has been incredible.
When I
was ill, I received absolutely loving care of an older woman where
I was
staying. She prepared concoctions for me hourly felt my forehead
humming and
hawing every few minutes. When I was robbed, I was offered help
and money.
Anytime I've mentioned something in my first few weeks living Batti
town,
someone has insisted on helping me get one. If I don't mention what
I need,
they asked. Homes, bikes, a refrigerator. I've had to actually stop
my
landlord from bringing me tea and breakfast every morning, although
I'm a
sucker for her homemade cakes and samosas. I have been given meals
and
tours. I've been offered rides from local activists and strangers,
in
trucks, 3-wheelers or bicycles. I was even offered the bike of a
passing
stranger, while he would share his friends. I really can't list
all of the
acts of kindness I've received.
I knew a lot of people from this region had left to Canada. I had
no idea
how many. "Where are you from?" is a favourite question
of my new neighbours
and unsolicited escorts home. "Oh Canada! My brother is there...",
"My
children are there...", "My friend is there...".
I try out my little Tamil.
"You to school in Batti go?". They try out their little
English. "Peace in
Canada?".
We have completed our six-week training program that included four
weeks in
the classroom, interrupted by two weeklong visits to our field sites
to
gradually start our work
The mornings were spent in three to four hours of intensive language
study.
Each group had two members learning one language and one member
learning the
other, depending on the region. My Indian team-mate and I are learning
Tamil.
The afternoons were initially filled with talks and information
sessions. We
had different speakers, from different communities, doing different
work and
with different perspectives. Through the speakers, we started to
learn more
about what life was like during the war, the present political situation
and
the challenges and barriers for them as community members and activists
during this time of transition. The afternoons gradually became
group
sessions on our work. The challenge and learning that comes from
having 11
countries, 14 personalities, diverse experience and many perspectives
in the
same room continued. So did more acts of kindness from my team,
including a
birthday party.
We had our final deployment to our field sites a couple of weeks
ago. We
will meet again in December for some non-violent communication training.
I'm
in the Batticaloa district with an Indian man and American woman.
The landscape in Batticaloa, like much of the Island, looks like
it was
pulled off of a postcard. The north and east of the Island are arid
technically and the ground is sandy. The place is still incredibly
green.
Palm trees, coconut and mango trees, beaches and lagoons. Even on
the
impossibly crowded buses between villages in the middle of the afternoon
sun, I can't help but enjoy the incredible scenery. But the country
roads in
particular are filled with the shells of houses and barbed wire
though.
Lots of barbed wire. In some stretches there are more ruins of houses
then
liveable homes. Some half a kilometre stretches of just lost homes.
There
are also buildings that look like they were schools and markets.
Sometimes
there is just an empty plot with an abandoned foundation. When there
are
long stretches of ruins and shelling houses going past the bus windows,
I
think of the local homes I've been invited into, filled with families,
snacks and tea. I imagine what these bombed houses would have been
like
and I wonder where are all the people are now. Are they alive? Were
they
detained? Did they abandon the area and start somewhere else after
having
lost their home, livelihoods and loved ones. Some areas are also
mined and
army watch posts and checkpoints are still there. Stretches of the
road are
closed, and more so at night.
People don't talk about the war immediately, but it is clear. References
to
'those years' don't come up right away, and are often vague and
trailing
off. Conversations eventually include references to vengeful open
fire on
civilians, massive roundups of crowds and long detentions. Women
coming for
help while they look for their children and husbands, being unable
to move
and having no food in the area. There are also the opportunity costs
of the
war to the schools, hospitals, roads and general infrastructure.
The war was
drawing the attention and the funds for two decades. People do talk
about
local areas, family, friends, homes, farmland and fishing grounds
that they
hadn't been able to access, some since they were children. I get
the feeling
people don't bring up the war and it's effects for a few reasons:
either
because it's common knowledge here, because they worry about the
ceasefire
or because they just don't want to talk about it in detail much
these days.
So I don't ask too much.
Many residents remember our Project Director William Knox from
when he
lived and worked in the area with Quaker Peace and Service. It is
clear
that Nonviolent Peaceforce has attained some respect simply because
of our
association with him. We have heard more then once that he was with
them
'during the worst times'. He was working with them when people couldn't
leave their houses, couldn't work and couldn't eat.
In Batti town itself, most checkpoints seem dismantled, but the
army
continues to occupy buildings and land. Solders ride bikes alone
and talk to
shop keepers in our area, which at this time around the LTTE heroes'
day is
decorated with lights and the LTTE billboards and archways. At the
same time
that there is no war at the moment, there is also not peace. Some
say that
community violence in our area has increased since the ceasefire.
The
country villages contain burnt out shops from riots and clashes
between
Muslims and Tamils. More stories of massacres and lost homes, livelihoods,
children and lives. People continue to lose access to their livelihoods
either because of land disputes, 'ethnic trouble' or army/police/LTTE
occupation.
On each visit we learned more about the situation, the conditions
in which
people lived and their efforts to change their environment. The
amount of
good work people are doing was incredible. Local and international
NGO's
have large bristol board charts and lists telling you their programs
and
funders. Canada is often represented on the chart. Commonly included
are
programs focusing on the most vulnerable and marginalized communities,
cross
cultural exchange and understanding programs, and programs focusing
on
youth, children, women headed households, victims of domestic abuse,
orphans, nursing mothers, detainees and released detainees. Unlike
talking
about the war, people become animated when they describe the cultural
exchanges involving children or integrated preschools.
It was on the basis of our preliminary visits that our team choose
to locate
our office in the village of Valachchennai. The Batti district,
and the east
of the island in general, have seen a lot of violence between Muslim
and
Tamil residents since the cease fire. It seems so unfair that civilians
who
survived the war here should face new challenges. The main road
between
Valachchennai and Batti town brings you through alternating Tamil
and Muslim
communities. The poles and lines are covered with flagged ribbon
in most of
the villages. The red and yellow colours of the LTTE in Tamil areas
and the
green and yellow colours of the SLMC in the Muslim areas. All you
have to do
is look up to know where you are.
Violence has been a problem generally where the villages are close
together,
but the village of Valachchennai contains both communities and was
identified
as the most volatile in the Batti district. The communities are
in close
proximity, but extremely polarized. Different civic offices, different
schools, different buses. Neighbours who don't trust each other
and have not
spoken for a generation. On Main Street in Valachchennai, every
house and
shop to the west side is owned by a Muslim and every home and shop
to the
east is owned by a Tamil. It is on this street that we are opening
our
office. It has been burnt down in previous riots, and inhabited
recently
only by animals. We picked the office location for the same strategic
reasons we picked Valachchennai -- to try to choose a location where
an
active presence might have the most impact. There don't seem to
be any
full time foreigners in this area, and people laugh and smile when
we tell
them this is where we will be. This location will be accessible
to both
Tamils and Muslims. We learnt that a location only 50 metres within
one
community areas or too close to an army post would be inaccessible
during
times of trouble.
During those times, joint efforts have been made between leaders
and members
in both communities to deescalate the situation and quell rumours.
We
received some early feedback that there might be a helpful role
for us to
play in these efforts, especially once we are more established here.
Local
NGO's have also organized workshops, dialogues and cultural sharing.
Community leaders have started joint committees and early warning
systems,
on top of their heavy burden of their daily responsibilities. The
local
office of the national Sarvodaya movement has started a Shanti Sena
program
for local youth. They have 60 Muslim and Tamil members in our area
who meet
every week. These are just the efforts we have learned about thus
far and we
continuously learn about more programs and individual efforts.
Each field team is such a different location and different situation.
We
have other teams of two in Jaffna in the north, (members from Kenya
and
Philippines). They have described militarised occupations and refugeeism.
We
have a team in Martara in the south where violence seems linked
to poverty
and politics, (members from Ghana, Japan and U.S.A.). There is also
another
team in the east - eventually in Muthur, but temporarily housed
in
Trincomalee at the moment, (members from Brazil/Palestine, Germany
and
U.S.A.). In Muthur they have watched nightly migration. The families
with
their children and blankets too scared to sleep in their homes.
On one side
of the street the Tamil families head to the church, on the other
the Muslim
families head to the Mosque. They pass each other again in the morning,
sometimes exchanging salutations. That team has already received
requests
and have helped when people are too frightened to contact international
agencies for help.
Here in Batti district everything is complicated. I have had surreal
moments
on a very regular basis. Of those who can, many have left Batticaloa.
Many
who I have met here have been forced here from somewhere else on
the island. Some
people have a great deal of hope in the ceasefire and some are scared,
don't
know where to turn for help or don't think that there is anyone
who to help
them. It is clear that civil society remained active throughout
the worst
times of the war, and is extremely active and engaged now. At the
same time,
it seems clear that barriers to activism and life exist, including
among
other things, fear, violence and severe repression. The civilians
have been
and are continually forced to 'accept' far too many gross abuses
of their
human rights and they continue to feel the affects of the war here
in the
east. I've intentionally avoided too many conclusions about the
local
situation, but I have decided to remove the word 'side' from my
vocabulary
and the concept from my mind. In addition to establishing our office
and
ourselves, our current work plan is intentionally slow. We are focusing
at the
moment on our meetings with the community, getting a wider and deeper
understanding of the area, building trust and relationships. Our
future
day-to-day activities I describe as 'flexible', which seems to just
come
across as 'vague' to some people. We continue to receive great input
to
help us develop our local mandate and encouraging feedback that
we can have
a positive role in this community. Some tangible tasks have already
been
suggested to us; particularly as an outside party trying assisting
the local
work between Muslim and Tamil communities, helping with the de-escalation
of
rumours and helping people overcome the violent barriers they face
to reach
the existing agencies established to meet their needs. However vulnerable
now the local population is, my first impression is that they are
the ones
who are affecting the most change.
Angela Pinchero
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